Derry

We spent yesterday at Donegal Town, County Donegal, which is a really lovely little village on the River Eske. Our accommodation was about ten minutes out of town, overlooking the inlet where the river meets the sea. I could describe it as beautiful, but I think that would do nothing to convey how absolutely amazing (Ebie’s favourite adjective) it really was. Our room was gigantic, and had everything you could ever hope for while travelling.

The view outside our window at Donegal

 

Donegal Bay with the tide out

Derry from the Peace Bridge

As surprising as it may seem, Ireland does have some lovely beaches.

Our accommodation since we arrived two weeks ago has been brilliant. Not one place has disappointed us, and the breakfasts have left us full well and truly into the afternoon. Our hosts have also been really friendly and welcoming. 

Derry's Peace Bridge

Today we arrived at Derry (or Londonderry, as it is officially known). Derry is a fantastic city with a very troubled background. It is called the Walled City, as a medieval wall completely contains the oldest part of the city. You can actually walk the top of the wall for its entire length, which we plan on doing tonight.

Derry is probably most famous for being where the Irish Troubles started in 1968. We spent an hour or so walking through the areas at the heart of this, catholic Bogside and Creggan. These areas have retained many of the murals depicting the republican Free Derry battles fought with the RUC (Royal Ulster Constabulary) and the British Army, as well as some new murals which have been painted in the past few decades. 

The area know in the 1970s as Free Derry

A Bogside mural

Another mural, painted in 1994

These murals have been painted in the last two decades.

There is a very interesting museum devoted to the history of The Troubles, and it left us feeling, well, quite pensive. We also felt a bit uneasy walking through areas still occupied today, as if we were a couple of voyeurs interloping on the lives of historic relics. It was very sobering to reflect that only forty years earlier, where we were walking was literally under siege. An interesting aside is that the Derry Police still drive Land Rovers heavily reinforced with armour, something made necessary but the occasional petrol bomb threat.

Although the overwhelming majority of Derryites would never contemplate a return  to The Troubles, and are very happy to look forward to a peaceful and more harmonious future, there remains a small minority of disaffected IRA supporters who would prefer to ‘maintain the rage’. Even while we were looking around Bogside, there was a small disturbance of mainly young boys.

Derry is built on the River Foyle, which basically divides the city into two halves, catholic and protestant. The two halves are joined by numerous bridges, but the most recent bridge, the Peace Bridge, symbolises the coming together of the two. 

We are preparing to finish our Ireland leg of the trip, with only Belfast left to go, but both Alison and I will take with us many fond memories. The Irish people are very friendly, with a wicked sense of humour, and have made us feel very welcome. The Irish countryside is the stuff of superlatives, and its green beauty will be indelibly imprinted on us.